YOUSU 3D Printer Filament Galaxy PLA 1.75mm review

Have you ever looked at a print so sparkly you felt like you owed it a tiny red carpet?

Why I Reached for YOUSU’s Galaxy PLA Bundle

I picked up the YOUSU 3D Printer Filament Galaxy PLA Filament 1.75mm bundle because I wanted to indulge my inner magpie without committing to a single flashy color. Four 250g spools—Glitter Galaxy Black, Chameleon Blue, Glow in the Dark Green Starry, and Glitter Gold—felt like a low-stakes way to give my printer a little glamour. I also liked that each spool was only a quarter kilo. It let me try multiple finishes without ending up with a leftover, gallon-sized bag of glittery guilt.

I’ll say up front: the manufacturer specifically recommends a 0.6 mm nozzle and a layer height above 0.2 mm for best results, and that advice matters here. With the glitter additive and the glow pigment, the filament performs best when you give it a bit of breathing room. If you’re printing models with frequent retractions, you’ll want to adjust your slicer settings, or you may find yourself working harder than a stagehand at an off-Broadway musical.

What You Get and What It’s Actually Like

This is a sampler-style bundle: four spools, each 0.25 kg, all PLA-based, all in that “galaxy” or special-effect realm, with one of them being glow in the dark. It’s pitched as a gift-able set and a way to print multi-color projects without buying full-size spools of each. I was keen on that because I have a history of buying novelty filaments and then spending six months explaining to friends why my cutting board is glittery.

The colors look rich on the spools and brighten up further once printed. The glitter gives lots of sparkle under light, while the chameleon blue shifts subtly depending on angle. The glow green charges quickly under bright light or UV and gives that nostalgic, science-fair glow I didn’t realize I missed.

What’s in the Box, Broken Down

I find it helpful to map out the essentials in one place. This helped me decide which models to print in each color and what settings to start with.

Filament	Finish/Effect	Spool Weight	Recommended Nozzle	Recommended Layer Height	Notable Traits	Best Use Cases	Glow Property	Notes
Glitter Galaxy Black	Deep black with embedded glitter	250 g	0.6 mm	>0.2 mm	High sparkle, hides layer lines	Figurines, display pieces, cosplay accents	None	Looks dramatic in low light; glitter masks micro-blemishes
Chameleon Blue	Angle-dependent color shift, subtle sheen	250 g	0.6 mm	>0.2 mm	Smooth sheen, elegant, less loud than glitter	Vases, decorative prints, phone stands	None	Shifts between blue tones; classy without being loud
Glow in the Dark Green Starry	Glow pigment with light sparkly effect	250 g	0.6 mm	>0.2 mm	Charges faster with bright/UV light	Night lights, signage, kids’ room decor	Yes—one glow spool in pack	Prints smooth; glow improves with stronger light
Glitter Gold	Warm gold with glitter	250 g	0.6 mm	>0.2 mm	Royal sparkly finish, flat surfaces show nicely	Trophies, awards, ornaments	None	Surprisingly forgiving on top surfaces

Everything arrives neatly wound, and the spools I tested had no crossovers or surprises lurking beneath the first layer. The company mentions mechanical winding and manual inspection; I can’t confirm the inspector’s name, but the spools behaved like someone careful had indeed been involved.

My Printing Setup and First Pass Settings

My printer is a standard FDM machine with a direct-drive extruder and a textured PEI bed. I tried this bundle on a Bambu Lab printer as well, though I used the filament from the side spool holder rather than through an AMS. The brand says the bundle works with Bambu printers and doesn’t need any extra hardware, and that matched my experience.

I don’t usually swap to a 0.6 mm nozzle for PLA, but in this case I did. It made a noticeable difference: fewer clogs, smoother flow, and a lot less fussing. If you’re tempted to stick with a 0.4 mm nozzle—and I understand the temptation—just be aware that this material’s personality really shows with more generous passageways and layer heights.

Temperatures, Bed, and Speed

The recommended printing range is a nozzle at 180–220°C and bed at 40–60°C, with speeds from 40–100 mm/s. I started conservatively and moved up once I saw the results. On my machine, the “sweet spot” varied slightly by color, but the general shape of it was consistent.

• Nozzle temperature: 205–215°C for most parts, 210°C as a default
• Bed temperature: 55°C on textured PEI, no glue
• Speed: 60–80 mm/s for infill; 40–50 mm/s for walls and top surfaces
• Fan: 100% after the first few layers, except small towers where I slowed the fan slightly to support layer bonding

These settings gave me smooth surfaces, strong layer adhesion, and vivid color, without any burnt sugar aroma that sometimes sneaks in when PLA runs too hot. I was also able to print larger vases and figurines without warping, which made me feel dangerously confident for a person wearing pajama pants at 3 p.m.

Retraction and Movement: What Kept Me Sane

The company mentions this filament is more suitable for models without frequent retractions. I found that to be true. Glitter and glow pigments can add a texture inside the melt path. It’s not dramatic, but it means rapid-fire retractions can lead to stringing or a bit of nozzle drool.

What helped me most:

• Reduced retraction distance slightly compared to my plain PLA profile
• Kept retraction speeds modest, not frantic
• Enabled wipe on retract and a small amount of coasting
• Used a 0.24–0.28 mm layer height, which smoothed the flow
• Avoided intricate designs that require constant start/stop movements

If you like to print parts with heavy supports and lots of contact points, test a small portion first. With a little tuning, I got supports to behave, but they weren’t this filament’s favorite party guests.

Color-by-Color: How Each Spool Behaved and What I Loved

Each color had a personality—some sparkling and extroverted, others quietly elegant like someone who uses linen napkins on a Wednesday. I’ll go color by color with what I printed, how it looked, and any quirks I noticed.

Glitter Galaxy Black: Moody, Dramatic, and Forgiving

I started with Glitter Galaxy Black because I knew it would be the diva of the group. I printed a small bust, a star-shaped desk tray, and a set of miniature planters. The glitter caught the light beautifully but, more importantly, it hid layer lines and tiny print errors like a benevolent makeup artist airbrushing reality.

On a 0.6 mm nozzle and 0.24 mm layers, surfaces looked smooth, and seams were less obvious. I used 210°C at the nozzle and 55°C on the bed. Top layers were pleasingly flat, even on a simple 2D text plaque. This color became my go-to for gifts where I want the recipient to think I’m more skilled than I am. If there’s a surface artifact, the glitter distracts everyone like a magician saying “look over there.”

Support removal was pretty civilized. Any leftover nubs sanded down easily, and the glitter texture made those touch-ups nearly invisible. If you’re printing a figure, this is a great pick for cloaks, hair, or any spot that benefits from a velvety dark base that still catches highlights.

Chameleon Blue: Smooth, Sleek, and Surprisingly Classy

Chameleon Blue shifts in a subtle way—more glow-up than glow stick. I printed a spiral vase, a phone stand, and a minimalist clock face. The sheen is more refined than the glitter colors, making it great for home decor. If you’re aiming for a grown-up effect that still has personality, this is it.

I ran slightly cooler—about 205–210°C—and kept the fan at 100% after the first layer. On angled surfaces and curved walls, the chameleon effect shows a blue-to-blue shift depending on the viewing angle. It isn’t an oil-slick rainbow, which I appreciated. It’s like your print knows how to make conversation but doesn’t shout.

Stringing was minimal once I reduced retraction intensity and used wipe-on-retract. I noticed that sharp corners benefitted from slower outer walls to preserve crisp edges. The final prints felt smooth to the touch, and seams were subdued. It’s the filament equivalent of wearing a blazer to the grocery store. You don’t need to, but look at you.

Glow in the Dark Green Starry: Nostalgia with a Purpose

Only one spool in the pack glows, and that’s the Green Starry. It’s important to note that glow intensity depends on how well you “charge” the filament or printed model with light. Bright light or UV gives the best results, and in my experience, UV charges it dramatically faster. I used a cheap UV flashlight, and in about 10–15 seconds the test sample was glowing like it had secrets.

I printed a constellation wall plaque, a night-light dinosaur, and some little star tokens for a kid’s scavenger hunt. The glow is clean and readable in a dark room, strongest just after charging and then tapering as expected over time. If you want that intense, early 2000s glow sticker energy, give it a direct UV blast before showing it off. As a practical test, I put a PLA-framed sign near a window, and it glowed gently after a sunny day, long enough to navigate a hallway in the evening without stepping on the cat.

Print quality was steady and smooth, very similar to the other spools. I used 210°C/55°C and a 0.24 mm layer height. I avoided models demanding frequent retractions, which cut down on stringing. Surfaces came out flat and even, which is unusual for glow filaments that can sometimes show micro-pitting. It didn’t happen here.

For best glow, go with thicker walls, infill closer to 20–25%, and avoid making the part so thin that the glow pigment has nothing substantial to charge. The material is also great for large prints; the manufacturer says it works for fast printing and big models, and I found that to be true. A big, simple shape glows with theatrical confidence.

Glitter Gold: Festive, Warm, and Surprisingly Versatile

Glitter Gold was the sleeper hit. I used it for a small award, a set of drawer labels, and a leaf-shaped trinket dish. It warms a room without turning it into a stage set. Top surfaces looked especially clean, and even where the glitter caught the light at sharp angles, the overall look was cohesive.

I found supports released cleanly when I used a slightly thicker support Z distance and reduced dense support layers to avoid fusing. Sanding was minimal on the touchpoints, and unlike plain glossy filaments, the glitter hides micro-scratches. If you’ve ever sanded glossy PLA and ended up with an obvious scuff mark that refuses to blend in, you know why this matters.

I did one silly experiment: a tiny “Best Neighbor” trophy, purely speculative because my neighbors remain untested in crises. Still, the end result looked so charming I considered mailing it anonymously. Glitter Gold makes novelty prints feel intentional rather than impulsive.

Layer Adhesion, Rigidity, and Real-World Use

The brand claims good layer adhesion and higher rigidity than many competing filaments, including some PLA+ variants. I can’t lab-test that claim, but in my hands, parts felt crisp and strong with good bed adhesion and no warping. Interlocking prints didn’t delaminate under moderate stress, and I was able to snap-fit a small assembly without feeling like I’d made a decorative cracker.

For functional parts that need a bit of flex, you might still prefer PLA+ or PETG; that’s not news. But for decorative and semi-functional prints—desk tools, organizers, brackets that won’t see heat or heavy load—these spools deliver. The rigidity helps parts keep sharp geometry, and print edges stayed true without softening, especially when I kept the cooling fan high after the first layer.

Surface Quality: Where Glitter and Chameleon Earn Their Keep

One of my favorite effects with glitter filaments is the way they hide sins. I printed two identical objects using plain PLA and Glitter Galaxy Black and compared them under a lamp like a jeweler considering diamonds. The glitter version camouflaged the seam line far better, and tiny surface flaws seemed to recede. It’s a small ego boost when you’re still tuning your profiles.

Chameleon Blue was more honest, but in a flattering way. It rewards good settings while still softening the look of mistakes. It’s that friend who says, “Maybe try it at 210°C,” and they’re right, and you pretend you were going to do that anyway.

If you want to sand and polish these filaments, you can, but it’s often unnecessary. The glitter finishes especially look best straight off the bed with a well-leveled plate and good layer height. I used a 0.24–0.28 mm layer height, which gave me handsome results without stretching print time into a lifestyle.

Stringing, Clogs, and Other Things That Make Me Talk to My Printer

Let’s talk about the elephant standing behind the extruder: stringing. If your model provokes lots of retractions, this filament can respond by decorating the print with festive spiderwebs. It’s manageable, but you need to meet it halfway. Printing at 0.6 mm and a thicker layer height helped a lot, as did wipe-on-retract and a small amount of coasting.

I rarely had clogs when I honored the 0.6 mm nozzle guideline. When I insisted on 0.4 mm—purely out of stubbornness—I had to babysit a bit more. That’s on me. After switching back, the material fed smoothly with no grinding or extruder hiccups. It also likes a steady, reasonable pace rather than boiling ahead at max speed.

If you do get a clog, I suggest a cold pull and a check for any carbonized note in the hot end. Then re-level your bed, push your layers to 0.24 mm, and try again. You may also want to trim your retractions by 0.2–0.4 mm from your standard PLA profile.

The Winding Is Clean—Still, Handle Like a Grown-up

The manufacturer says the spools are precisely wound to avoid tangling. Mine were indeed tidy, and I didn’t find any snarls as I printed through. That said, if you let filament loops slip off the spool while handling or store things poorly, even the neatest winding can become a bird’s nest. I kept each spool in a resealable bag with desiccant when not in use and took care not to loosen the filament end prematurely. It’s like hair: you can brush it, but don’t defy gravity and expectations then blame the shampoo.

For long prints, a filament guide helped keep the angle consistent, and I put my spool holder on a smooth bearing. The more predictable the path, the less excited your extruder gets.

Glow Without the Lab Coat: Light Sources and Expectations

The glow green doesn’t require a physics degree, but the rules are friendly: more light equals brighter and longer-lasting glow. UV light charges it quickly; bright indoor bulbs do fine but take longer. Sunlight works too, assuming you don’t melt your model on a windowsill. After a strong charge, I got a bright initial glow that gradually dialed down to a gentle sheen.

If you want the glow to be obvious over a longer period, print walls a bit thicker and avoid hollow shells so thin they contain barely any pigment. I like to think of glow as “light storage,” and you need enough material to store more than the memory of light. For night lights, signage, and kids’ room accents, this filament made me smile in a way I hadn’t since realizing the refrigerator light doesn’t stay on when the door closes. Or does it?

Compatibility and the Bambu Factor

I ran a few jobs on a Bambu Lab printer using the side spool holder, and the filament behaved. The brand notes it’s compatible with Bambu and doesn’t require extra accessories like an AMS. That matched my experience. If you do want multi-color prints, you can always swap spools manually between layers or parts. It’s the analog version of automation, but with glitter.

Speed-wise, I stayed in the 50–80 mm/s range for most builds. That’s within the recommended 40–100 mm/s window. On that platform, I used a textured PEI plate and kept the bed at 55°C. Adhesion was excellent, and I didn’t need any adhesives. If you’re using a glossy plate, consider a light glue stick barrier just to make removal gentle on the first layer’s finish.

Where This Bundle Makes Sense (and Where It Doesn’t)

Four 250 g spools won’t build a life-size robot, but they will cover a surprising number of projects with flair. For gifts, prototypes, and small-to-medium display pieces, this set makes a strong case for itself. It’s a cost-effective way to try premium-looking finishes without committing to full kilograms you may not finish before your next personality shift.

It’s less ideal for mechanical parts in hot environments or pieces that live outdoors in harsh sunlight. This is PLA, after all. It shines in decorative and occasional-use prints, the sort that live on shelves, desks, and mantels, prompting visitors to ask how you did that and whether you take commissions. I do not. I accept compliments, though.

The Settings That Worked for Me

I always appreciate seeing other people’s dialed-in settings, even if I don’t copy them exactly. Here’s the profile that got me through most prints with a smile.

Setting	Value (Typical)	Notes
Nozzle Diameter	0.6 mm	This matters for this filament bundle; fewer clogs, smoother flow
Layer Height	0.24–0.28 mm	Above 0.2 mm as recommended; 0.24 mm was my favorite
Nozzle Temp	205–215°C	210°C default; 205°C for chameleon blue sometimes
Bed Temp	50–60°C	55°C on textured PEI worked perfectly
Print Speed	50–80 mm/s	40–50 mm/s for outer walls and top surfaces
Fan	100% after first layers	Slightly less for small towers to maintain layer bonding
Retraction Distance	Slightly reduced vs. plain PLA	Keeps stringing in check; direct drive used here
Retraction Speed	Moderate	No need to be aggressive
Wipe/Coast	Enabled	Helps reduce oozing on travel moves
Flow/EM	Default or slight negative tweak	Calibrate if edges are fattening
Bed Adhesion	Skirt or brim, rarely raft	Brim for tall, thin models; otherwise skirt only
Infill	15–25% for décor	More infill for glow to deepen effect

This got me consistent results across colors. If prints started to show wispy hairs, I adjusted retraction and coasting, and sometimes bumped nozzle temp down by 5°C.

Post-Processing: When, Why, and Whether It’s Necessary

The glitter finishes show beautifully straight off the bed, so my post-processing usually involved wiping away finger smudges and calling it a day. If I needed to sand supports, I used fine grits and a gentle touch. The texture of the glitter masks minor sanding marks, which is the visual equivalent of a noise-canceling feature for your impatience.

Painting on top of these filaments is possible, but I’d do a primer first. For the glow green, I prefer to leave it bare so the glow isn’t muted. The chameleon blue takes paint decently if you rough it up, but I found it too pretty to cover. If you must embellish, metallic paints play nicely on the glitter gold accents.

Troubleshooting Moments and How I Solved Them

I love when things go smoothly, but I’ve also learned that troubleshooting builds character and suspicious piles of failed parts. Here are the snags I hit and what fixed them:

• Stringing on small, detailed models: I reduced retraction distance slightly, enabled wipe, and bumped layer height to 0.24 mm. Wires vanished like I had said a spell.
• Occasional nozzle oozing during long travels: I added a tiny bit of coasting and used a wipe tower on one complex print. Less glamorous than it sounds but effective.
• Temperatures flirting with artifacts on flat areas: I stepped nozzle temperature down by 5°C and slowed outer walls to 45 mm/s. The surface settled.
• Support scarring on glitter gold: I increased the Z gap for supports and reduced dense support layers. Post-processing dropped to a few swipes of sandpaper.
• Retractions on thin, spindly designs: I edited the model to reduce separate islands or redesigned supports to minimize travel. Then I printed the showier version in Galaxy Black, which kindly pretended nothing had happened.

Storage and General Care

While PLA isn’t famously hygroscopic compared to some nylons, it enjoys dry air and stable conditions. I kept each spool in its bag with desiccant when not in use. If you live somewhere humid—and my house once qualified, thanks to a shower handle with a sense of humor—drying the spool on low heat improved consistency.

About hardware wear: anytime a filament includes particles for sparkle or glow, I think about my nozzle. I prefer a hardened steel or abrasion-resistant nozzle as a general practice when I’m printing effect filaments regularly. I can’t say with certainty that this specific glitter blend is abrasive, but I like the peace of mind. If you stick with brass, just keep an eye on your nozzle condition over time.

Pros and Cons After Many Prints

I ended up printing more with this bundle than I planned, which is the exact opposite of my usual sampler experience. Here’s how it shook out.

Pros:

• Great set of finishes for the price and quantity; four colors without committing to 1 kg each
• Recommended 0.6 mm setup works beautifully and reduces fussing
• Excellent bed adhesion and consistent extrusion on two different printers
• Glitter hides layer lines and small flaws; chameleon blue is elegant; glow is genuinely fun and charges well under UV
• Packaging and winding are tidy, which makes storage and swapping easier

Cons:

• Needs that 0.6 mm nozzle and >0.2 mm layers for best results; 0.4 mm users may fight clogs or stringing
• Not ideal for frequent-retraction models unless you tune aggressively
• Only one glow spool in the set—accurate, but if you’re here for glow, you might want more
• As PLA, it’s decorative-first; not for hot car interiors, dishwashers, or heavy mechanical stress

Who I Think This Bundle Is For

If you want to print gifts, display pieces, ornaments, desk accents, or cosplay details that pop under light, this bundle is a joy. It’s perfect for hobbyists who want variety in smaller doses and anyone who wants to try a glow filament without buying a full spool they’ll only use in October.

If you mostly print functional parts or models requiring constant retractions, I’d still get this, but approach it as a creative palate cleanser. You’ll have fun, and you’ll probably end up with a glittery pen cup that makes you look like someone who organizes fundraisers.

A Few Model Ideas That Sing with These Colors

Sometimes the right model makes the filament shine. I kept a list of things that really worked:

• Glitter Galaxy Black: busts, star or moon-themed trays, chess pieces, gear-shaped coasters, dragons, anything with ridges and folds
• Chameleon Blue: vases, headphone stands, phone docks, minimalist sculptures, lamp shades (cold bulbs only)
• Glow Green Starry: wall plaques with cutout constellations, night-light animals, door signs, arrow markers, escape room props
• Glitter Gold: trophies, medallions, frames, holiday ornaments, nameplates, bookends

I also did a multi-part art print where each element used a different spool from the bundle. It gave the whole piece a curated look, like my prints had been to finishing school.

Value and When to Reorder

For a sampler pack, the value is strong. Each 250 g spool goes farther than I expect, especially on 0.24–0.28 mm layers. I used up the gold first because it made every silly idea look like an award, then chipped away at the black and chameleon blue. The glow green still has plenty left because I use it for specific projects, not everyday items. If I were to reorder, I’d likely buy full spools of black glitter and gold, and keep the chameleon as a treat.

If you’re calculating cost-per-print for display objects, this set punches above its weight. It makes small prints feel premium, and that’s the entire goal with effect filaments.

What I’d Tell a Friend Before They Hit “Buy”

I’d say this: it’s a genuinely fun and capable PLA bundle, but don’t ignore the nozzle advice. Put in a 0.6 mm, pick a 0.24 mm layer height or more, and reduce your retractions a bit. If your first print looks a little fuzzy, try wipe and coasting, and bump your temp down a touch. Give the glow a UV flashlight and show it off immediately before your audience checks their phones. And remember, the glitter is on your side; it’s the cosmetic highlighter of the 3D printing world.

Also, the pack only includes one glow spool. If glow is your main goal, you may want to supplement. If variety and sparkle are your goals, this set nails it.

Final Verdict and the Part Where I Admit I’m Smitten

YOUSU’s Galaxy PLA Filament bundle turned out to be exactly what I wanted: four charismatic finishes in manageable portions, with printability that felt consistent and forgiving once I followed the 0.6 mm guidance. The glitter blacks and golds look luxe, the chameleon blue is quietly striking, and the glow green brings out my inner child who once taped luminous stars to a bedroom ceiling and then lay awake, negotiating with the universe.

Printing was smooth, adhesion was strong, and the surfaces looked good right off the bed. When I pushed the material into lots of retractions, it pushed back—with stringing—until I adjusted settings. Fair enough. With a little tuning, I got clean results across the board, and that’s the balance I want in a showcase filament.

If your workshop could use a little sparkle and your prints a little theater, this bundle is a low-risk way to add both. It turns ordinary objects into conversation pieces and does it without demanding you refinance your nozzle inventory. I can’t promise you’ll start giving your mail carrier custom awards, but you might consider it—and they probably deserve one.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.